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Mure et musc l artisan parfumeur8/15/2023 ![]() Mûre et Musc’s latest incarnation, created by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, is a limited edition Parfum version. I’ll certainly take Mûre et Musc Extrême over regular Mûre et Musc Eau de Toilette, but it still comes up lacking when compared to the vintage-1988 Eau de Toilette version. As I spray on Mûre et Musc Extrême, I notice the opening berry notes have been amplified and the berry accord (containing blackberry, black and red currants, and raspberry notes) is more powerful, “colorful” and sprightly as the fragrance dries on my skin the vanilla-musk of Mûre et Musc Eau de Toilette has been lightened with a “greenish” note (basil?). Mûre et Musc Extrême is stronger and more interesting than Mûre et Musc Eau de Toilette. Mûre et Musc no longer smells like a perfume so much as it does an aroma to be used in a personal hygiene or home fragrance product. Mûre et Musc stays close to the body and disappears quickly on my skin. I also smell a soapy, slightly sour white floral aroma, verging on orange blossom, during the dry-down. ![]() I still smell berries but they are pale berries that have been over-sweetened to compensate for their unripe state after a flat berry-citrus smell, I detect “musk” (if you can call Mûre et Musc’s slightly vanillic, wan base notes “musk” at all). Today’s Mûre et Musc is diffuse and gauzy, and the “happy” tone of the Mûre et Musc formula has changed too - full-throated laughter (1988) has been replaced with girlish giggles (2008). I did a double-sniff when I recently sampled a brand-new bottle of Mûre et Musc Eau de Toilette. Mûre et Musc Eau de Toilette (current version) The mood of 1988 Mûre et Musc is happy, summery (and unisex). It’s been ten years since my last bottle of Mûre et Musc and, as luck would have it, a friend has a bottle of Mûre et Musc from 1988 - a high school graduation gift - and she let me wear the ‘vintage’ perfume the fragrance is just as I remember it: a deep, rich smell of berries (like the scent of fresh, ripe berries cooking in sugar syrup with a whole vanilla bean and lemon rind tossed in for good measure) coupled with a lively and almost “resinous” musk. ![]() I bought my first bottle of L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc in 1990, twelve years after its debut.
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